TRANSPARENCY with Dane Reynolds

TRANSPARENCY with Dane Reynolds


In Volume 24.5, Dane Reynolds wrote about the nature of progressive surfing, offering his thoughts on face sequences, straight airs, and the unpredictable realities of a liquid medium.

He was responding to a suite of photos we received from Nate Lawrence, shot while Reynolds was in Indo filming for Kai Neville’s latest film, Cluster.

“Surfing is constantly reacting to a changing surface,” he observed. “You take mental notes on what the wave does on a certain piece of reef and how your board handles when you apply pressure. But that only removes a tiny piece of unpredictability that every wave deals you. So heading out with certain maneuvers in mind proved to be counterproductive.

Being conscientious on a wave is a bad thing. When I’m doing my best surfing I’m both present and absentminded. I think that’s what makes surfing so addicting. It’s something you’ll never conquer.” This clip, which Dane cut for TSJ from Neville’s footage of those sessions, offers a visual aid for his observations.

( The Surfer's Journal )

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